Bombay…or as we know it now, Mumbai, is as much a city of contrasts as it is a city of dreams. A city housing those who were born and bred here, and those who’ve made it their home now, and can never imagine themselves anywhere else.
A mix of cultures and communities gives it a cuisine and taste of its own. A city where white-collared professionals rub shoulders with dabbawalas on the local trains. Swanky and shiny cars jostle with auto-rickshaws on the roads, and heritage buildings cling on for space and relevance amid the vast expanding sea of modern skyscrapers.
And, while there is no dearth of places that strongly reinforce the many ironies quintessential to the city, there’s one in particular that elicits a kind of rustic, spiritual calm. We’re talking about the Bangagna Tank, a little piece of history and culture ensconced by a string of high-rise luxury apartments, in Mumbai’s exclusive Malabar Hill area. The oldest living areas of the city often known as the mini-Benaras of Mumbai, this freshwater tank, along with the neighbouring Walkeshwar Temple, was built in AD 1127 by Lakshman Prabhu, a Goud Saraswat Brahmin minister in the court of the Silhara dynasty of Thane.
The Legend of the Banganga Tank
Legend is that, when Ram and Lakshman were searching for Sita, they stopped at Rishi Gautam’s ashram. Thirsty, Rama shot an arrow into the earth releasing Bhogawati, or the underground Ganga. Lakshman used to fetch the Shivalinga from Kashi for Rama’s daily worship. One day when Lakshman didn’t return on time, Ram created a Linga using the sand here and worshiped it. The Shivalinga came to be known as Valu-ka-Ishwar, meaning, God made of Sand, and gradually became Walkeshwar. The Walkeshwar temple still stands on the eastern edge of Banganga Lake and lends its name to this area. Over time, other temples came up which gave this place the status of a place of pilgrimage.
Centuries later, Banganga and its vicinity, with its unique sights, sounds and aromas still harken back to a simpler, quieter time and remains a great spot to escape the city’s usual cacophony. As you make your way down the many narrow alleys, branching out from the main road leading to the Banganga Tank, you are surrounded by a motley crew of temples and old houses bathed in vibrant hues of red, yellow, orange, pink, and blues. Old wizened women perched comfortably, almost permanently outside their houses, to kids running around playfully, might have been residents here at some time.
Throughout Its History
The walls on either side of the alley are in different states of disrepair, but still look quite alluring, thanks to the colorful murals that adorn them, depicting scenes from mythology, history, and folklore. The peeling wood columns and beams in a state of disrepair stand braving the winds. Due to its proximity to the shore, the air here is humid and thick with the smell of the sea, but often you catch a hint of scents emanating from incense sticks, and flowers or of food being cooked from residential kitchens. Most of the property here, including the Banganga tank and the Walkeshwar temple, belongs to the Goud Saraswat Temple Trust.
In fact, after the Portuguese destroyed the temple in the 16th century, it was rebuilt from a generous donation made by businessman and philanthropist Rama Kamath, also from the same community. Many Goud Saraswat Brahmin families still reside within the temple complex. The surroundings of the tank are relatively free of crowds, save for a smattering of people on the steps performing religious rituals, or simply relaxing. The atmosphere is abuzz with the sounds of aarti, religious chants, the ringing of temple bells, and the quacking of ducks, which far outnumber the people you find here. As you sit on the steps and watch the activities unfold in front of you, you find yourself far removed from the realities of this city that never sleeps.
The Banganga Tank and its Environs
The most unique, and disarming spot I found here is the Dashnami Goswami Akhada or the Banganga Goswami cemetery. This is no ordinary cemetery where all and sundry are cremated (Hindu deaths), but this is a special area, reserved for those who have taken the vows of Sanyas (renunciation) – Sanyasis as we know them. Where one would expect fear or dread to envelop the air, you are surprised by the inherent calmness and stillness of the sanctified spot.
A quaint sweet workshop makes its presence known by its fragrance where, traditional sweets are prepared with utmost patience, and skill by the masters of the art, while the owner sweetly pitches his wares, by nudging us to taste them. The dhobi ghat, filled with rows and rows of clothes drying, spoke of an era gone by, where huge Victorian-style bathtubs lined the area and, men continued their daily chores of washing and drying in the windy afternoon.
A smattering of snack shops dots the premises, as people continue their normal lives, in a world that seems almost surreal, and alien to those of us who’ve grown up in much more synthetic, and modern environments. An interesting afternoon, that left me yearning for more stories of Bombay’s rich culture, and the secrets it hides bravely in its folds, open only to those who are willing to caress and love this amazing place for what it was, how it has evolved, while still maintaining the backbone as it keeps embracing, and welcoming all those whose hearts find their way here. As for me, I have a Bombaywala Dil Mumbai meri jaan.
Getting there: The closest railway station to Banganga is Charni Road, (about 3-5 km away) from where you can easily find a taxi or a bus.
Best time to visit: The calming beauty of Banganga, is best enjoyed during the early hours of morning, or evening when the sun isn’t too harsh, and a gentle breeze keeps the surroundings cool.
Thanks for showing a side of Mumbai that I didn’t know existed. 🙂
Mumbai is beautiful and there’s so much to explore. I love Banganga myself
MUMBAI MERI JAAN
Reading this i will definately soon go and visit myself… so little we have explored… thanks for the lovely read…
Super liked the caption…
Bombay is a myriad city filled with contrasts.
Bombay mera dil always n forever
Walkeshwar area itself is steeped in history. Do explore.
Bombay is an amazing city!
Great knowledge to know about MUMBAI’S heritage.
Fantastic read, superb written, greatly informative
Fantastic read, superb written, great insight.
Mumbai is the best
Interesting and informative
Interesting
I’ve been visiting this place since childhood ?
History fascinates me. Good job.
Mumbai meri jaan…always
Would love to know more about Mumbai’s history. Please write about more such places.
The old and the new all live in harmony in this city. Lovely.
Exploring the city is my favorite time pass too.
Interesting and well described.
Excellent write. Like your style❤
I’ll definitely explore such walks 🙂
It’s pretty well known to Mumbaiites I guess. The history of course is interesting.
Mumbai is undoubtedly my fav 🙂
True blue mumbaikar…?
The charm of old world Mumbai is truly beautiful.
Thanks for a great write-up. You should come for the other walks too!
History is so fascinating ?
Count me in the next time too!??♂️
@masoom ME TOOOO
@Pratikasuri how is your mum so fun and you so boring?
Khakee tours are really good. All their walks are amazing.
such a descriptive writing
Informative.
Nice.
Mumbai meri jaan hamesha
Bombaiyya dil 🙂
Now u made me miss Mumbai even more
??
Loved it.
Though from Kolkatta, I call myself a Mumbaikar now. Such is the magic of this city.
Banganga is such a calm place, you have to feel it to understand.
I have to visit this place.
Pretty informative
been in the walk too!its amazing
very well described
khakee tours are my personal favourite!
you should try the other khakee walks too!
Nice!
getting my walking shoes out already!
Perfect excuse to buy new walking shoes!!!
booked for this weekend and i cannot wait for this.
i hope its worth losing all the calories over this?
??
There’s so much more to explore in Mumbai. A city of varieties and cultures.
Nice
Heritage walks itself seems interesting.
Informative
Interesting read.
nice
Intresting
Interesting to know about this place
Bombaywali dil…always and forever.